Author Archives: seesawyer

About seesawyer

I have a personal crafting blog wherein I discuss sewing, crochet, knitting, and tatted lace

Pattern: Flowering vines bracelet

Four pieces in the flowering vines pattern, mostly bracelets

Four pieces in the flowering vines pattern, mostly bracelets

Today’s pattern is a tatted strip that looks best done in different colors (one for the ball and the other for the needle thread). It’s quite a narrow strip, works well as a bracelet, and would work well as a simple edging if you neglect the bracelet clasp bits of the pattern. It’s a simpler descendant of this pattern which I was surprised I hadn’t thought to try sooner.

Wearing the yellow-flowers bracelet, to give you a sense of how narrow it is

Wearing the yellow-flowers bracelet, to give you a sense of how narrow it is

To work in two colors, knot the ends of two threads together when you start the work and bury the ends in the first ring or chain as you would when joining in new thread. Start the first few knots of the pattern right up against the color change knot, in this case on the needle thread side. I like the pattern with green for the “vines” and a variegated thread for the “flowers” (although the yellow also works quite well), but your mileage may vary.

To start the bracelet:

  1. Ring 6ds, picot A, 6ds
  2. Chain 3ds
  3. Working as for a chain, in the ball thread: 6ds, (2 first-half single stitches, 4 second-half single stitches, 2 first-half single stitches)x3, 12ds, (2 second-half single stitches, 4 first-half single stitches, 2 second-half single stitches)x3, 6ds. Start pulling the core thread through, but pass the needle through the closing loop to form a self-closing mock ring. I found it works best to pass the needle through the loop two or three times in the same direction to make a longer connection.
  4. Chain 5ds, (2 first-half single stitches, 2 second-half single stitches)x3
  5. Shoelace knot
Close-up of the stitches

Close-up of the stitches

Repeat unit (start after step 5 above, repeat 1-3 as many times as you like or until bracelet is about 1/2″ shorter than you want it:

  1. Ring 6ds, picot A, 6ds
  2. Chain 4ds, join A of previous repeat, 2ds, (2 first-half single stitches, 2 second-half single stitches)x3
  3. Shoelace knot

Finishing the bracelet:

  1. Ring 8ds, small picot, 4ds
  2. Chain 4ds, join A of previous repeat, 2ds, (2 first-half single stitches, 2 second-half single stitches)x3
  3. Pass the needle through the small picot and tie a shoelace knot
  4. Chain 4ds
  5. Tie both threads together and wrap a pony bead in the needle thread as in this tutorial
  6. Tie threads together again, pass both through the center of the wrapped bead, and clip ends

vines_1Obviously, if you just want an edging, ignore the first and most of the last section (steps 1-3 are a decent way to end an edging section, but you don’t need the bead). If you want a tasseled bookmark, ignore the first section and instead of making the wrapped bead make a tassel in step 5-6 of the last section.

The yellow piece shown is my working-out-the-pattern piece and does not have a bracelet clasp. The piece with blue “flowers” is scaled up, replacing every three stitches with four (except in the bracelet clasp, which is the same size).

Pattern: Oak tree filet chart and purse

Crochet purse with a filet design of an oak tree

Crochet purse with a filet design of an oak tree

Welp, it’s officially gotten to the point that I feel so ashamed of how long I’ve let the blog languish that I avoid touching the blog. So, it’s time to re-work my expectations. I’m going to continue to use this space sporadically to post patterns that I’ve created, but I’m not going to try to keep up with journaling in any way. Suffice to say that I’ve still been creating, but the combination of work, new friends, and not-least-important an apartment with less natural light for photography means I’ve let documenting slip.

Another view of the purse

Another view of the purse

Today I intend to share a pattern that I worked up a few months ago. I had a bit of leftover yarn and wanted to make another filet crochet purse; I was looking for charts of trees online and couldn’t find anything I liked. Don’t get me wrong, there are lots of gorgeous tree designs out there, but since I was limited to a couple dozen pixels on a side… anyway I ended up making my own. Without further ado, here’s an excel version, where the gray cells should be filled in and the white cells left open:

Chart: tree

For the purse, the general construction scheme I followed was the same as for the heart purse. Start by working a few rows flat of 29 hdc, with the number of rows dictated by how thick you want the purse to be. Then start working in the round, using this flat piece as a base, working 2hdc into each post at the ends of the base’s rows. When you’ve worked about 6 rows/2″ high of a bag, start in on the chart on both faces of the bag, with normal dc on the short sides between the charts. When you’ve finished the chart, add another row or two of open cells, then start working on the handle, by working a strip about 7 dc wide in the flat starting from one short side of the purse. Extend the handle until you like the length, then stitch it down to the far short side of the purse using slip stitches. Add a closure flap to one face of the bag, if you like, by (ch 3, turn, (dc, ch1) across, dc in 2nd-to-last dc of the row, skip a ch1 and tc in last dc of the row) to create a triangular flap that gets narrower each row. I made the very last row, when my flap had two square cells left in it, just a chain of about a dozen stitches to make a button loop. The button I made by wrapping a large stitch marker that I’ve never used in the yarn and stitching it down. Photo:

tree_purse_button

Detail of button and triangular flap.

Purse with hand for scale

Purse with hand for scale

I made this purse in sport-weight acrylic, and it’s quite long and rather narrow—it fits most hardback novels, but not easily. I made the handle super long, so if I wear it cross-body it falls to my calf, but I can trap the middle of the strap under the button flap and make it into a backpack. I’m pretty pleased with how it turned out, and definitely happy with the chart, which I hereby license you all to use however you see fit, not just in purses.

Journal: 16 March 2015

Things I have been up to lately

Things I have been up to lately

Since my last post, I: finished the mitts with my Christmas-present yarn, made a few new tatted bracelets, finished plying my hand-spun yarn, started knitting a shawl(ette) with it, chugged away on my Sierpinski blanket and my big green scarf, dyed some things, and did a bunch of mending that really needed to be done but ate into my creative crafting time.

The mitts are pictured above; not much to say on the topic. I’m pretty pleased with how they came out, mostly because of how warm and soft/smooth the yarn is.

Bracelets:

Two of them are this pattern, and the one in the middle is a pattern I’ve yet to post. I’ve been playing with color a bit; I’m really pleased with how the blue/yellow one turned out but less pleased with the blue/black one.

I finished plying my handmade yarn, and am pleased to report that the three-plying method using long crochet-like chains worked really well. I almost immediately cast on a knitting project with the yarn: a top-down triangular shawl based on this (knitting fool link) lace stitch. I’m hoping that I’ll have enough for a reasonable shawl/shawlette; I was too excited about casting on to bother with details like measuring out my yardage. I’m working from the outside (gray) in (towards purple), despite winding the yarn in a center-unwinding ball. Partly this is because of the colors and partly because my spinning gauge was still totally inconsistent, meaning the purple end is considerably thinner than the gray. I’m hoping it’ll look nice and like the shawl is fading prettily away, and not get all warped and sad and look like I am bad at spinning. We’ll see; wish me luck! Photos:

tea_dye

Dyed tatting, with reference pieces

I conducted a dyeing experiment using tea on some tatted things; shown at right are the tatted bit I dyed purple a few weeks ago, three bits I stained with tea, and bracelets made of the same thread and undyed to serve as a color reference. The tan one, of course, started out white. Not much happened; the tan of the formerly white one is reasonably lovely, the rainbow is a little less intense, and the “ocean” colorway thread just turned muddy. My verdict is I may do this to white pieces but should probably stop overdyeing things that already have color to them.

Sad re-dyed shirt

Sad re-dyed shirt

Speaking of which, after my rather successful re-dyeing of a shirt discussed in my last post, I was pretty confident and ready to dye my blue patchwork shirt that also got pink-splotched in the same wash load. I’m heartily disappointed in the results, shown at right; I think it’s obvious that it was amateurishly dyed over, it’s terribly splotchy right in the center front, and it just doesn’t look very good. I haven’t even had the heart to try it on and preen in front of a mirror yet, which is a bad old sign. I’m going to at least try it on, and depending how I’m feeling may pick up some black dye and see what happens, but as like as not will just throw it out (or leave it in my dresser to slowly migrate to the bottom of a drawer in shame). Ah well; fortunately I picked up some nice blue fabric at the store to make a new patchwork shirt, once I get through my backlog of sewing.

In more happy news, my Sierpinski blanket is coming along well and is over half-finished; photo:

Sierpinski blanket in progress

Sierpinski blanket in progress

Journal: 22 February 2015

Homemade yarn

Homemade yarn, just beginning the plying process

It’s been a bit of a while since I posted—I blame my busy social calendar and regret nothing—so I’ve got a fair bit to share with y’all today.

Yesterday I had a really good crafting day: I successfully re-dyed a shirt that had gotten pinked in an Unfortunate Laundry Incident, as well as playing with dyeing tatted pieces. I worked a little bit on the blouses I’m assembly-line-ing, and had good luck with my serger. I also had good luck with plying my home-spun wool; I came up with a way to make the colors work out and it’s looking like real yarn now.

I’ve also done a fair bit of tatting in the past month, started and nearly finished a pair of mitts out of my Christmas present yarn, and chugged away on the blanket and scarf I talked about in my last journal post. The blanket is now about halfway done, hooray hooray, and I’ve picked up enough yarn to finish the scarf.

In tatting news, I did a bit of design, both yesterday’s pattern and a modification of this pattern that I like rather better but is fiddlier to do (I intend to post a pattern for it in a bit). I’ve been playing with variegated thread, reproducing the beautiful bracelet that I made as a gift and failed to take pictures of, among others. I also made a butterfly bracelet with beading, which worked well. Photos:

Stripey mitts

Stripey mitts

The mitts are pretty straightforward double-crochet spiral things. I am striping them in the two yarn colors, with the interface between stripes being alternating stitches of the different colors. I’m pretty pleased with the starting row—I chained along the length of my hand, then chained back putting a treble crochet every third stitch to make four separate finger holes. The yarn is bamboo/wool, so very soft and warm, and it’s thicker gauge than I usually work with so the mitts are going quite fast and coming out bulky and lovely. I made the two mitts have opposite colors—red on top vs. gray on top—on purpose, in case you’re wondering.

Opposite colors

Opposite colors

I did intend to learn broomstick lace crochet with this yarn, and I tried to make a pair of mitts that way, with the first row of lace holes being the finger holes. Suffice to say broomstick lace in the round is tricky and not for beginners with improvised tools. So I ripped that out and started again with ordinary crochet. I do want to do broomstick lace at some point—probably the next time I have yarn that’s begging to be a scarf. I did learn that the packaging for a zipper makes a pretty decent flexible “broomstick”, for whatever that’s worth.

Sewing table with serger

Sewing table with serger

In sewing news, I picked up some fabric a while ago and it has been patiently waiting to be turned into blouses. I finally cut it this week—stacking all three pieces of folded fabric and cutting together, so let’s hope I don’t find any wrinkles—and hauled out the serger yesterday. I was, let’s say, pleasantly stunned to find that this old beast was still in good working order, threaded (!) in the correct color for two of the blouses (!!) and had good tension settings for the fabric (!!!). I was expecting to chew through quite a bit of scrap fabric getting it into that state, as the last time I recall having the machine out it was not doing so well on any of those counts. Evidently I either a) have completely forgotten the last time I used it, or b) have an infestation of wonderful. wonderful sewing-machine-mending gnomes in my house. At this point I can’t even think of any project I’ve made that would’ve used the serger and blue thread, so I’m leaning towards explanation b.

Lovely serged seam

Lovely serged seam

At any rate I am pleased with how the serger is doing. I tend to think of it as for knits only, but I’ve been irritated with the thick seams on the other blouses I’ve made, so I decided to give it a go. I’m a little nervous about a few things—the measurement of the seam allowance on curves, for one, since the knife and needles are fairly far apart and the guideline is at the location of the knife; I’m also worried about fitting the very different curves on the front princess seams, since I have to take the pins out at the knife point and hope the fabric stays in place until the needle. I guess that’s what the foot is for and I should just trust it. Wish me luck!

In dyeing news, I had an Unfortunate Laundry Incident a while ago where a non-colorsafe red thing pink-blotched two of my favorite shirts (the patchwork ones), plus a shirt I didn’t care about as much, a bathroom rug, my nice gray sweatpants, and so on. Two of the affected shirts were blue, so I decided to pick up some purple RIT dye and see if I could remediate them that way. I’m pleased to say it worked on the one I cared less about, and used only half the dye, so next time I have a good chunk of free time I think I will try it on the blue patchwork one. Not sure what to do about the brown shirt, unfortunately. Plus, while I had the dye out, I dyed a test bit of tatting just to see how it would do. The results are lovely, meaning I suddenly have a lot of options for all this white thread I have around. Photos:

The color is a little blotchy/uneven, but it looks a lot more deliberate than the single pink splotch it had before. I’m hoping it’ll be even less noticeable on the patchwork shirt, which is made of patterned fabric and is lighter-weight than this one, making it easier to dye evenly in my little basin. I’m particularly pleased with how similar the coloring is between the shirt and the lace bits, considering they’re made out of different fibers and all; I was prepared to have to snip the lace off if it didn’t work well. I did learn one interesting thing: slight deodorant stains make the fabric pick up more (purple, RIT-brand) dye than it would otherwise; hopefully not by a noticeable amount when it’s worn.

3-plying setup with crochet hook.

3-plying setup with crochet hook.

Last but far from least, I am thrilled to report that plying the homespun wool is going well. I had been planning on 2-plying it, matching end to end and working towards the center, making the yarn be multicolor at every point. I tried that. It looked terrible. So I laboriously un-plied the few yards I had done and tucked the thread away for a while to think about what it had done. Eventually I came up with a brilliant idea: 3-ply the sucker, working in crochet-like chains, making each section of yarn be all one color. It’s going really well: I love the colors of the yarn, and 3-ply brings me a lot closer to the sock-weight store-bought yarn I’d like to use it with. I’ll report again once I get more of it plied, but am really pleased so far.

Pattern: Ornate bracelet

Bracelet worked in today's pattern

Bracelet worked in today’s pattern

Wearing my new bracelet

Wearing my new bracelet

The name is a bit of a cop-out, but I’m pretty proud of today’s pattern. I had a pretty big pattern-design first with this one: it started as a doodle and some speculative stitch counts, as a lot of my patterns do, but this is the first one that, when I sat down with needle and thread, actually worked as intended without any adjustment to the stitch counts I’d guessed. On top of that I think it looks rather pretty.

I’ve been making a bunch of bracelets lately, and it’s occurred to me that in addition to the stuff in the tutorial on making bracelet clasps, plus a suitable pattern, a fair bit of trial-and-error work goes into placing the clasp in the pattern so it doesn’t jut off at a funny angle or leave hanging picots. I may post some notes about how to place the clasp in various of my old patterns at some point in the future, but I’ve been pretty busy lately. At any rate, going forward I’m going to include that information in new pattern posts, starting with this one.

My bracelet clasp has also evolved a little bit, so I’ll give instructions with the new one, but the other one works fine too (and inserts the same way into the pattern). Instead of forming the elongated ring for the clasp using spirals, I’ve been using four-four ruffles, which come out pretty straight. The main reason to prefer this is aesthetic; it also makes thread management a little easier. I’ve also been making the clasp ring a little shorter, which makes it harder to take off/put on but correspondingly easier to not lose.

This pattern is a little bit fiddly, fair warning: lots of ruffles and spirals and similar shenanigans. If you haven’t made others of my patterns before, I recommend reading this one before continuing. Pattern:

  1. Ring: 4ds, picot A, 2ds, picot B, 2ds.
  2. Chain: 1ds, 4 single stitches of the same type, spiraling halfway around the needle, 1ds.
  3. Ring (bracelet clasp): 6ds, (2 first-half single stitches, 4 second-half, 2 first-half) three times, 12ds, (2 second-half single stitches, 4 first-half, 2 second-half) three times, 6ds.
  4. [Starting pattern repeat] Chain: Leave a picot-sized space on the ball thread, making picot C between this chain and the previous chain; 1ds, 4 single stitches of the same type, 1ds, join A of previous motif (omit this the on the first repeat); (2 first-half single stitches, 2 second-half single stitches) 6 times to make a ruffle chain.
  5. Shoelace trick: tie a single knot between the needle and ball threads, reversing their positions.
  6. Ring: 4ds, picot A, 2ds, picot B, 2ds.
  7. Chain: 1ds, 4 single stitches of the same type, spiraling halfway around the needle, 1ds.
  8. Ring: 8ds, join C, 4ds, join B of previous motif, 4ds.
  9. Repeat from step 4 to step 8 until piece has reached the desired length. Omit picot A of the last iteration of step 6, otherwise it’ll dangle. Finish on step 8.
  10. Repeat step 4, but add 4ds to the end and do not shoelace afterwards; go directly into a repeat of the ring in step 8. There should be no hanging picots and both threads should be at the center of the end of the piece, right where you want them.
  11. Shoelace trick and chain 4ds.
  12. Knot the two threads securely together and wrap a bead for the other half of the clasp as described in the tutorial here, starting on step 5.
ornate_working

Test pieces in original scale and scaled up.

This pattern also, somewhat to my amazement, scales up well—in #10 thread and my idiom, it’s about 7/8″ wide as written, but if you scale up by 3/2 it still works, making a more open look and a width of 9/8″ or so. So the repeat unit becomes, in condensed notation, chain 2 spiral 2 join, (2-2 ruffle x9); shoelace; ring 6 picot 3 picot 3; chain 2 spiral 2; ring 12 join 6 join 6. Note that a spiral is 4 single stitches, so it’s (more or less) equivalent to 2ds. The photo at right has the piece I made to test the pattern I’d doodled and a larger-scale version.

Obviously this pattern also works for general edgings and strips and all; just omit the clasps.

Journal: 1 February 2015

spinning_doneToday my big news is that I finally finished my spinning! I still have to ply it (or decide not to), but I am so glad to be done with the spinning. I think I’ve already said all I really want to about this project: I am glad to have done it, but glad to be done and not planning to do any more.
presentI received a slightly-delayed holiday present that I’m quite excited about: two skeins of lovely soft wool-bamboo blend in muted gray-green and burgundy or dark fuchsia, and a short skein of purple and gray, 100% silk that is so soft you guys, oh my goodness. I already have plans for all of it, although nothing cast on: I’m going to learn broomstick lace and make some chunky arm warmers with both colors of the wool blend, and learn hairpin lace and make either jewelry or a summer scarf with the silk.

scarf_progressI’ve cast on and made progress with the weird yarn two-tone scarf. Other than using it as a travel/waiting in line project, I have been letting it languish a bit because I think it will need more yarn, so I want to get back to the store and see if I can match dye lots before getting too invested. The scarf is working up wonderfully thick; I should probably make it a priority to get back to the store and finish it before the cold weather goes away.

clutch_faceI’ve been doing a bit of utilitarian sewing that I may get a pattern up for eventually: I wanted a little zippered bag to keep in my desk at work and put band-aids, ibuprofen, and so on in. I’ve been wanting to try a quilting pattern I saw on somebody’s blog a while ago, of sewing short strips together into a braid or brickwork pattern. So I combined these two desires, and made the little clutch shown at right. It uses four each of three colors of strips, 2.5″ by 4.5″, sewn into a loop in the zig-zag pattern with quarter-inch seams. The top I sewed straight across, then set a zipper; for the bottom I pressed under the seam allowances all around, matched up the loose corners, and whip-stitched them together. I should’ve lined it, but got lazy, and now it is at work serving its purpose and will probably never get lined. Ah well. I also made a little coin jar using more or less the same technique: I made a loop of two strips of each color, sewed the bottom closed, and turn in the loose edges on the top and sewed around the rim. The bottom closure was a little tricky: I had three right-triangles loose at the bottom edge, so I sewed these together along the normal seam lines. This made the bottom a pyramid, which is not really ideal, so I just gathered the middle bit until it more or less sat flat. Photos of both projects:

blanket_progressFinally, I’ve got a mindless crochet project that I meant to only work on when I’m too braindead to work on anything else; perhaps predictably it’s progressing a lot faster than anything else. It’s a fractal blanket patterned on the Sierpinski carpet; I’ve done a Sierpinski blanket as a gift before (pre-blog), and liked it so much that I decided to make myself one. This one is in Bernat baby sport yarn; I’m expecting to use two pound-skeins of the stuff in the taupe colorway. I’m using filet crochet, with (ch1 dc) for the open pixels and (yo, insert hook in next st and pull up a loop, yo and pull through two loops, yo, insert hook in same stitch and pull up a loop, yo and pull through two, yo and pull through three; dc) for the closed pixels to give a little darker of a fill than normal (dc, dc) filled pixels. There’s a one row/2dc border all the way around. The 81-pixel, fourth-order fractal pattern made a good blanket width, and I’m planning to do two repeats to get a good length. I’ll probably write up a more explicit pattern and post it here once the blanket’s done and I can get good measurements off it. Right now it is definitely a little off of square, which I’m hoping some aggressive blocking (even though it’s acrylic yarn) will fix; it’s not the end of the world for me if it stays off-square though.

Pattern: Two-tone scarf

Scarf in gray and tan

Scarf in gray and tan

Well, this post has been a long time coming. I finished making the scarf in early November, and finished writing up the pattern the next day. I wanted to make just a quick editing pass before posting, but then life intervened in a major way. More than two months later, I am finally getting my life back to normal; one upside of the long delay is that I’ve started in on another scarf in the same pattern, meaning that for once I have actually tested the write-up before posting.

This pattern is based roughly on this crochet feathers-and-fan pattern, but with some modifications to a) use two colors and b) work better with the silky yarn I had, which just doesn’t want to be bunched up into 5 stitches in one. Other yarns will work fine, but the pattern is optimized for silky-look yarns with a heavy drape.

Detail of scarf showing scale

Detail of scarf showing scale

You will need: two colors of DK-weight, silky-look yarn, such as Paton’s silk bamboo, roughly 200 yards each, and a G-size crochet hook; or whatever yarn you want and its recommended size of crochet hook. Designate one of the colors yarn A and the other yarn B; it does not matter which is which.

Difficulty: you only need ch, dc, and slip stitch (US terminology throughout) for this pattern, but it’s a little complicated so you should be really comfortable working flat in crochet before attempting.

There is a repeat unit which I will reference throughout the steps below:

  1. Starting from the middle of the scarf, crochet outwards as follows: dc in the dc that is two before the first ch1 space (this is equivalent to skip 1, dc in next dc, for the most part). Skipping one dc, dc in the next ch1 space. Skipping one dc, (dc, ch1, dc, ch2, dc, ch1, dc) in the next ch2 space. Skipping one dc, dc in the next ch1 space. (Skip 1, dc in next dc) three times. Skipping one dc, dc in next ch1 space. Skipping one dc, (dc, ch1, 2dc) in the top of the turning ch3 at the end of the row.
  2. Ch3, turn, and (dc, ch1, dc) in the very first dc (the one that is usually skipped in working flat). Skipping one dc, dc in next ch1 space. (Skip 1, dc in next dc) three times. Skipping one dc, dc in next ch1 space. Skipping one dc, (dc, ch1, dc, ch2, dc, ch1, dc) in next ch2 space. Skipping one dc, dc in next ch1 space. Skip 1, dc in next dc. See pattern below for how to finish the row, depending on where in the colorwork you are.

Main pattern:

  1. Me wearing the gray&tan scarf

    Me wearing the gray&tan scarf

    In yarn A, chain 23. Turning, dc in the 6th chain from the hook. Skip 1, dc in next chain. Skip 1, (dc, chain 1, dc) in next chain; chain 2; (dc, chain 1, dc) in next chain. (Skip 1, dc in next chain) five times. Skip 1, (dc, chain 1, 2dc) in next chain.

  2. Still in yarn A, chain 3, turn, and come back as in the second half of the repeat unit: (dc, ch1, dc) in first dc; skipping 1 dc, dc in next ch1 space; (skip 1, dc in next dc) 3 times; skipping 1 dc, dc in next ch1 space; skipping 1 dc, (dc, ch1, dc, ch2, dc, ch1, dc) in next ch2 space; skipping 1 dc, dc in next ch1 space. Skip 1, dc in next dc. Finish the row by dc in the top of the turning ch3.
  3. Set aside the first piece for the moment and pick up yarn B.
  4. Chain 19. Taking the first piece, slip stitch into each of the last four starting chains you made in step 1, from the fourth-to-last to the last one made. See photos below for illustration.
  5. Turn. Skipping one chain, dc in next chain. Continue symmetric to the other part: skip 1, dc in next chain. Skip 1, (dc, chain 1, dc) in next chain; chain 2; (dc, chain 1, dc) in next chain. (Skip 1, dc in next chain) five times. Skip 1, (dc, chain 1, 2dc) in next chain.
  6. In yarn B, complete the second half of the repeat unit. Finish the row by a slip stitch in the yarn-A dc at the end of the yarn-A second row, which should be the dc closest to you at this point. You should now have two symmetric, two-row, wavy bars, one in yarn A and one in yarn B, attached by some slip stitches along the short ends of the bar, with both yarns emerging from the middle of the top of the piece. Note: the next steps are easier if, when you make the slip stitch connecting the two parts, the loop of the inactive yarn is on the side of the work facing you and the tail of the inactive yarn is on the far side of the work.
  7. Still in yarn B, chain 3, and without turning, work the repeat unit on top of the yarn-A section you’ve already made. Finish with a dc in the top of the non-turning ch3.
  8. In yarn A, slip stitch in the three chains of yarn B close to you. Turn and complete the repeat unit. Finish by slipping into the last yarn-B dc.
  9. Still in yarn A, chain 3, and without turning, work the repeat unit on top of the last yarn-B section. Finish with a dc in the top of the non-turning ch3. Chain 3, turn, and complete another repeat section, creating a double-wide bar of yarn A. Finish with a dc in the top of the turning ch3.
  10. In yarn B, slip stitch in the three chains of yarn A close to you. Turn and complete the repeat unit.
  11. Slip stitch into each of the three chains in the turning ch3 of yarn A made in the middle of the previous step. Turn and complete the repeat unit. Finish by slipping into the last dc of yarn A. You should now have two short bars and one long bar of each color.
  12. Still in yarn B, ch3 and without turning complete a repeat unit. Finish with a dc in the non-turning ch3.
  13. In yarn A, slip stitch in yarn-B ch3, turn and complete a repeat unit. Finish with a slip stitch.
  14. Still in yarn A, ch3 and without turning complete a repeat unit. Finish with a dc in the non-turning ch3.
  15. Repeat steps 8-14 but with opposite yarns.
  16. Repeat steps 8-15 until you reach the desired length. End with slip 3, turn and make a repeat unit, finish with a slip stitch in whichever yarn is needed to square off the end. It’s most symmetric if you finish on two short bars, but do what pleases you.
  17. Tie off and weave in ends.

I mentioned I’d started in on a second copy of this scarf. I’m using the weird yarn I mentioned in my last post; it’s a good bit heavier than the Paton’s, I am using a J hook, and it’s not what I’d call silky. Still, it’s working just fine, making quite a bulky/lofty fabric that will be nice if I can finish the scarf before the cold weather departs. Too bad I have more WIPs at the moment than I really know what to do with. At any rate, I bring this up because I took a couple photos of the tricky beginning bit that I didn’t think to get the first time around: